Friday, December 7, 2007

crazy beautiful

One of the reasons I love running in the mornings here in Phnom Penh is that there is always something to look at. I remember when I first arrived, I was overwhelmed with all that lined the streets. It reminded me (and still does!) of the "Where's Waldo?" books from childhood, where there is so much stuff everywhere, and you are supposed to find Waldo somewhere in the middle of it all... which is quite a challenge because of all the stuff.

Everything here seemed so haphazard and ugly; seemingly endless piles of trash, naked toddlers, food stands with questionable contents, nappy dogs, piles of burning things with toxic fumes that I was forced in inhale. I was disgusted with the sights and smells that were hard for me to understand, but I quickly became used to it and was able to accept it as part of the culture of Cambodia. Very quickly there was not much that surprised me.

At this point, however, I am not only able to put up with all of this randomness that might make most people nauseous, but I can honestly say that I really love it! As I ran down the street this morning the darkness was slowly fading away as the sun lit the sky pink over the river... and in this erratic place, I was overwhelmed with beauty. I was once again reminded of how much I appreciate all that surrounds me along the streets of this city.

There were a group of Asians to my left, most dressed in normal clothes, jumping around rhythmically to booming music. On my right, a man fast asleep in his tuk-tuk, the sides draped in a clear plastic sheet. Brightly colored fruit arranged strategically in baskets. A woman with big, dark eyes begging on the edge of the walkway who was so tiny that I almost tripped over her. Food sellers with baskets dangling over each side of their shoulders as they walked down the street; the baskets full, as the seller awaited the first sale of the day. A baby wrapped up and fast asleep on the edge of the sidewalk, covered in a small pink lacy screen, while her smiling mother rested against a light post. I was thinking that besides the obvious fact that running energizes me, with all that I have to look at each morning as I venture out, it has proved to be more than just a physically healthy way to start the day. I said a word of thanks, and prayed a blessing on these beautiful people.

As I rode on the back of the moto home, I smiled as I continued to appreciate my surroundings and circumstances... the children dressed in navy and white uniforms, hair perfectly combed, getting on the back of a moto for a ride to school. The bright orange coolers on every corner, filled with bottled water and other cool drinks. The small fires where women were cooking noodles for the children's breakfast. Televisions blaring loud Khmer music inside the shoddy pieced together houses that line the streets. The other motos, weaving quickly in and out of the other traffic, past my legs, almost hitting me. (I can't help but think that going home and driving a car sounds so boring now!) The fact that my driver didn't speak a word of English, but I still managed to get home quickly, and as I got off and gave him the small change, he told me that I was beautiful. Me? I was thinking it was this place....

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